Aubergine and lemon risotto (Yotan Ottoleng)

Smoky aubergine and the strong freshness of lemon and basil are used here to offset the stodgy tendency of some risotti. A good-quality stock is vital, because it's the backbone of the dish (it's a cinch to make, too: just cover some aromatic vegetables and herbs - carrot, celery, onion, bay, parsley, garlic, fennel, thyme, etc - with water, add a pinch of salt, simmer for 20-30 minutes and strain). Serves four.

2 medium aubergines

170ml olive oil

1 onion, peeled and finely chopped

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2 garlic cloves, crushed

200g risotto rice

120ml white wine

750ml hot vegetable stock

2 tbsp lemon juice

Grated zest of 1 lemon

20g butter

Coarse sea salt and black pepper

50g Parmesan (or other mature hard cheese), grated

10g basil leaves, shredded

Preheat the oven grill to high. Place one aubergine on a tray and grill for about an hour, turning occasionally, until the flesh inside is cooked through (don't worry if the aubergine bursts - continue cooking, so you get that distinct smoky flavour). Remove from the oven, cut a slit lengthways in the aubergine and scoop out the soft flesh, avoiding most of the burnt skin. Roughly chop the flesh and put in a bowl.

Cut the second aubergine into 1.5cm dice. Heat 120ml olive oil in a frying pan and in batches until golden and crisp. Transfer to a colander, sprinkle with salt and leave to cool.

Heat the remaining oil in a heavy-based pan, then fry the onion slowly. When translucent and cooked, add the crushed garlic and cook for three minutes more. Turn up the heat, add the rice, stir to coat it in the oil and fry for two to three minutes. Add the wine (it should hiss) and cook for two to three minutes more, until all but evaporated. Turn down the heat to medium.

Add a ladle of hot stock to the rice, then stir until it is absorbed, then repeat, stirring all the while, until all the stock has been used up - this will take 10-15 minutes.

Remove the pot from the heat, add the lemon juice, half the zest, the aubergine pulp, butter and half a teaspoon of salt. Stir, cover and leave for five minutes. Taste and add more salt if you like and some black pepper.

To serve, spoon the risotto into bowls or plates and sprinkle with the diced aubergine, Parmesan, basil and the rest of the lemon zest.

·Yotam Ottolenghi is chef-patron of Ottolenghi, London.